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In previous issues, I teased an upcoming review of: An Unexpected Food Truck. The outlet in question is Phil You Up – an odd little spot I stumbled upon in the car park of B&Q, Leatherhead.

First, let’s take a moment to enjoy the name: Phil You Up.

Doesn’t it make you wonder what the proprietor’s name is?

Anyway, moving on… Phil You Up is a fascinating place, plopped in an undesirable location, serving intriguing food. It’s far more than just a burger van, Phil You Up (yes – I’m going to keep saying the name) cooks mountains of steak, prawns and lobster tail with wild abandon. It’s smoky, charred and cheerful.

There is something magical about watching men on their lunch breaks, standing in their high vis jackets or paint-covered overalls, eating lobster in a B&Q car park.

Sadly, I have given up trying to review Phil You Up. I have been five times. Five separate attempts, five defeats. Each time, they’ve either been sold out of everything worth reviewing (how do you sell out of burgers by 12:30 on a Wednesday?), or they’ve been closed due to a fire.

I can’t put any more effort into reviewing this place when there are so many others, and so, I am moving on. If you’re ever in the area, give them a try and let me know what you think.

I hope ‘Phil You Up’ doesn’t Let You Down.

Last Saturday called for a spot of antiques shopping in Dorking, because I am pushing forty and that’s what I do with my weekends now.

Walking past Monte Forte, I remembered Chef Adam Fisher named it Best Pizza in Surrey. With that endorsement ringing in my ears, in we went.

If you’ve ever tried your hand at making Neapolitan pizza, you’ll know it’s a rabbit hole. I once did a two-day masterclass with Neapolitan World Champion pizza maker Marco Fuso, and despite making it at home for a few years now, I still feel like I’ve got a lot to learn.

What I do know, is that a good Neapolitan is all about the dough. It should be light, digestible and rich in fermented flavour. Will Monte Forte deliver on all three?

Diavola

Interestingly, Monte Forte’s crust doesn't follow the trendy, modern canotto style (the ultra-puffed, balloon-like edge that dominates Instagram these days). Instead, it leans closer to the traditional ruota di carro or 'wagon-wheel' style, which is wider, flatter, classic old-school Italian Neapolitan.

This Diavola could be spicier. The heat barely registers. But it’s a well-made Neapolitan with plenty of flavour, and the dough is ticking all the boxes.

Capricciosa

A Capricciosa is normally served with mushrooms but they have been substituted for salami, making this one a curious beast. The pizza already has prosciutto cotto, so what is the salami napoli adding? I’m not sure if this a regional variation or a dastardly deviation.

As someone who enjoys the freshness of flash-cooked vegetables on pizza, I would have preferred the classic. Either way, it’s tasty in its own right.

What’s the Damage?

The Verdict

Pizza restaurants are one of the few concepts still enjoying good margins in this challenging climate. It costs next to nothing in raw ingredients, it's incredibly filling, and restaurants can command a healthy markup. But it’s also not too expensive for the customer, and at Monte Forte, you can enjoy a well-made meal at a decent price.

Monte Forte might not eclipse the heavy hitters of the southern pizza scene, but it is a very good neighbourhood joint that knows their craft. In a world of soaring restaurant prices, this is a win in my book.

Bookham Country Market

📍 The Old Barn Hall, Bookham.

🕘 10 am to 12 noon

Chobham & Woking Beer Festival

📍 Chobham Rugby Club

🕘 1 pm until late

Reigate Cheese and Chilli Festival

📍 Priory Park, Reigate.

🕘 10 am to 5 pm

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