THE REVIEW
It was Mrs Cheeseman’s birthday last week, and with her parents visiting for the summer holidays, we all packed into the Cheesemobile and headed down the road to Leatherhead’s most illustrious roundabout.
That’s where you’ll find The Plough. From the outside, you wouldn’t guess there is much deliciousness going on. It’s a regular-looking pub on a rather dusty junction. But take a walk down the side, and you notice a rather nice-looking door that leads to a lovely dining room and a garden.
After all, this is no ordinary pub – it’s one of those newfangled hybrids where the kitchen operates independently from the boozing. In this case, the kitchen is Malai Thai.
And they are doing a wonderful job.
Salt & Pepper Squid (£10.95)
With many hungry hands at the table, the squid was eaten before I had a chance to take a picture. So here is the official photo.
I’ve learned not to expect much from squid in restaurants. It’s so often chewy little rings served with a dollop of Hellmann’s Garlic Mayonnaise. But wow – this squid is a triumph. Beautifully soft, melt-in-the-mouth chunks in a crisp and crunchy batter, offset by a sharp sweet chilli sauce.
Wonderful.
Gang Kiew Wan / Green Thai Curry (£16.55)
This curry is satisfying, wholesome and refreshing, with zingy, well-rounded flavours and a beautiful vivid colour.
Chicken Pad Thai (£16.55)
Who doesn’t love a good pad Thai? This one is excellent. It’s bright and alive with sweetness and lime and plenty of texture.
Banana Fritter (£7.95)
Look at the execution on that fritter… crisp and fried to golden perfection. It’s another sign that people in this kitchen have some skill, and more than that: they care.
What’s The Damage?
Salt & Pepper Squid | £10.95 |
Green Thai Curry | £16.55 |
Pad Thai | £16.55 |
Banana Fritter | £7.95 |
Total | £52 |
We live in a world where a burger in a pub can cost upwards of £20. By comparison, £16.55 for a top-quality main course is very good.
The Verdict
Malai Thai at The Plough is delivering high-calibre Thai cooking inside a traditional local pub. The ingredients are fresh, the kitchen clearly cares about detail and the prices beat most modern pub menus. It is easily one of the best casual meals in the area.
If you’re thinking of visiting, be aware, the restaurant does not allow children after 7:30 pm.
Surrey Foodies’ reader and healthy-eating coach Laura Belton is hosting a hands-on Thai Cooking Workshop on Friday 28 August over in Brockham.
Having lived across Asia and Thailand for many years, Laura brings a wealth of knowledge, experience and authenticity to her classes.
You will spend three and a half hours making delicious dishes, and then sit down to enjoy the results.
Find more details and book your spot at yummyyummy.uk/cooking.
This Week’s Foodie Events
Thursday, 6th August
📍 RHS Garden Wisley.
🕘 18:00 – 22:30
Friday, 7th August
📍 The Old Barn Hall, Bookham.
🕘 10:00 – 12:00
📍 Albury Vineyard, Guildford.
🕘 18:00 – 20:30
Saturday, 8th August
📍 Ripley Green, Ripley.
🕘 09:00 – 13:00
📍 West Horsley Place, West Horsley.
🕘 18:00 – 09:00
📍 Gatton Park, Reigate.
🕘 18:30 – 22:00
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Wishing you a week of good eating.
Until next time,
Sam.
Sam Cheeseman is a food writer, creative director and former chef who lives in Ashtead, Surrey.