The Spring Special
Hello Fellow Foodies.
Congratulations… You have made it through another British winter.
Yes, the clouds are parting, the scowls on the High Street are lifting and the beer gardens are looking less ridiculous.
That’s right, Spring in Surrey is upon us. After months of rain, misery, roots and brassicas, we’re seeing the first green shoots of a better life.
So, we’re taking a break from restaurants and reviews to talk about what’s fresh, seasonal and local.
Here’s what to look for on menus and in markets near you…
SPRING GUIDE
The Early Spring Heroes
Purple Sprouting Broccolli

Arise, King of the Broccolli… ‘PSB’ has a sweeter, nuttier flavour than its regular counterpart and cooks quickly because the stems are tender. It’s also one of the first true vegetables of early Spring. I love to char this and keep it simple with lemon and olive oil.
Who’s Serving It?
The Anchor in Ripley are pairing it with Veal Escalope, Barbecue Mushrooms and Onion Schacciata (a thin Tuscan bread).
And Hillfield in Bagshot are serving BBQ Purple Sprouting Broccoli with Blue Cheese Sauce and Toasted Almonds. Yum.
Forced Rhubarb

What is forced rhubarb? While it sounds like something ethically questionable, it’s actually normal rhubarb grown in warm, dark sheds (often in Yorkshire) and harvested by candlelight. This method avoids photosynthesis, and thus produces vibrant pink stalks with a sharper, more delicate flavour than field-grown rhubarb.
Personally, I love this with mackerel (which is also coming into season soon).
Who’s Serving It?
At Starling in Esher, Great British Menu winner Nick Beardshaw is serving West End Farm Pork Tenderloin, Rhubarb, Calcot Onion and Malt Glazed Cheek.
And Sorrel are pairing Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb with Pear and Hibiscus.
Wild Garlic

These are popping up in Surrey woodlands and will soon be abundant. They’re one of the easiest things to forage, because the leaves smells like garlic.
Once you’ve bagged yourself a few handfuls, Wild Garlic Pesto or Wild Garlic Butter are both easy to make, simple options that are big on flavour.
Who’s Serving It?
Wild garlic is showing up on a lot of Surrey menus right now… But The Windmill in Windlesham are serving Sea Salt & Black Pepper Squid with Wild Garlic Aioli.
And The Salt Box in Redhill have a recipe for Wild Garlic French Toast.
Spring Greens

These are essentially young spring cabbages that have had less time to grow, so the leaves are thinner, sweeter and less fibrous than the dense winter stuff. Now is when they’re at their best. They’re also super healthy and packed with Vitamins C and K, if you care about that sort of thing.
Who’s Serving It?
RHS Wisely are unsurprisingly seasonal, pairing Wild Garlic & Ricotta Gnudi, Spring Greens, Slow-Cooked Grelot Onions, Parmesan and White Wine Sauce.
WHAT’S COMING SOON
Sorrel

Foragers, rejoice! Sorrel grows practically everywhere.
The first leaves are appearing now, but will hit their stride in April. Unlike most greens, sorrel has a sharp, lemony bite – perfect to cut through rich dishes or to lift a sad salad. But they don’t like heat and will quickly turn to mush.
Mackerel
Mackerel season in the UK starts in late spring and runs through to the summer, when the fish are at their fattiest and most flavourful. Fresh mackerel is rich, oily and clean-tasting, a world away from the dull, fishy versions that sit around too long.
Asparagus
Their season is short and sharp, beginning in late April and lasting just eight weeks. Chefs love this time of year, because the quality jump is huge, meaning fresher, sweeter and more fragrant spears.
Jersey Royal Potatoes
These small, sweet potatoes get their signature flavour from the seaweed (called vraic) that’s traditionally used as a fertiliser, giving minerality and a faint saline character. All they need is good butter and fresh herbs. Lovely.
SPRING
What’s still going strong?
There’s still some carry over from the season leaving us. Leeks are sweet and mild at this time of year, and perfect in soups and pies. Cauliflower is still going strong, and Kale is near the end of its season.
Nominate a Sausage
In the coming weeks, we will commence The Great Surrey Sausage Battle – pitting the best sausages in Surrey against each other, until we find a winner.
If there’s a sausage from your local butcher that you think is worthy of the title, please shoot me an e-mail at [email protected] to nominate them.
And if you are cooking seasonally, send me a picture. I’d love to include community dishes in an upcoming newsletter.
Coming up next week: Sam Daffin @ The Dirty Sixth reveals his Five Favourite Foodie Spots in Surrey.
Wishing you a week of good eating.
Until next time,
Sam @ Surrey Foodies
