THE REVIEW
Autumn is officially here... The next few weeks mark our final opportunity to enjoy pub gardens without being wrapped up in layers or sat directly under heaters, shivering into our iced drinks.
My wife – born and raised in Hong Kong – finds this practice odd. “Why do British people still drink outside when it’s 5°C?”
I think it’s because we love summer so much that we like to pretend that it’s never over. If it’s cold but we can still sit outside semi-comfortably, we consider it some kind of accomplishment: We’ve beaten you, weather! You may take our spirits, but you’ll never take our right to drink an IPA in a gale-force wind.
The King William IV boasts a garden with immaculate views, so that’s where we headed for a midweek lunch.
The pub’s website is very keen to point out that it is “not a gastropub.” It’s a traditional pub serving decent food. On the menu, that strikes true: there are no £12 bowls of hispi cabbage and nobody appears to have fermented anything in a shed.

The KW is located just a stone’s throw from the wonderful The Running Horses (read our review here), and just around the corner from popular brunch spot 51 Degrees North, which, if you’re driving, offers ample public parking outside.
The location is up Byttom Hill, accessed via a short but surprisingly committed climb. It isn't exactly Everest. But arrive carrying a toddler and you may wish to establish a base camp.

It’s a quaint and beautiful establishment. The kind you bring a London-based friend to visit, just to show off how much better you have it in Surrey.
We opted to sit in the garden for the glorious views of Box Hill. It’s reminiscent of The Watermill, but hopefully the food is not as bad.

Check out the pub’s online gallery here for more pictures.
The menu is a head-scratcher. For a ‘proudly traditional’ place shunning gastropub trends, skipping the fish and chips (and pies) in favour of yakitori skewers and salmon tacos feels like an odd diversion from form.
Struggling for choice, we opted to share two dishes.
Mixed Ploughman’s (£21.95) Trio of cheeses, home roasted ham & a pork pie, a selection of cured meats, grapes, apples, celery, chutneys, bread, oil & balsamic.

A dish that can easily serve two very hungry people. The produce isn’t remarkable, but it’s pleasant in the same way an M&S cheeseboard is. There’s plenty of variety, and it has clearly been assembled with some thought and care.
Tempura Calamari Board (£21.95) Freshly marinated squid seasoned with lemon pepper, served on lemon mayonnaise.

Compared to the incredible squid we had at The Plough, it’s a little disappointing: salty and slightly overdone.
The mayonnaise is pleasant enough but could use some zing.
But hey – it’s not a gastropub, remember?
What’s The Damage?
Item | Price |
|---|---|
Ploughman’s | £21.95 |
Calamari Board | £21.95 |
Total | £43.90 |
Yes, just two dishes. Is that much of a review? It’s partly because of the menu, and partly because… At this particular venue, I’m not sure the food is the point.
The Verdict
If you are looking for top-tier dining, you may be disappointed. But as a pub, the King William IV gets top marks. It’s a beautifully historic establishment in a secluded setting and remarkable views.
Where should I go next? Reply and let me know!
This Week’s Foodie Events
Thursday, 1st October
📍 RHS Garden Wisley, Woking.
🕘 18:00 – 22:30
📍 De Vere Horsley Towers, East Horsley.
🕘 19:00 – 23:00
Saturday, 3rd October
📍 New Zealand Avenue, Walton-on-Thames.
🕘 09:30 – 14:00
📍 Albury Vineyard, Guildford.
🕘 11:30 – 16:30
📍 145 High Street, Old Woking.
🕘 10:00 – 16:00
Sunday, 4th October
📍 Market Square, Epsom.
🕘 09:30 – 13:30
Tuesday, 6th October
📍 Market Square, Epsom.
🕘 10:00 – 15:00
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Wishing you a week of happiness and good food.
Until next time,
Sam.

Sam Cheeseman is a food writer, creative director and former chef who lives in Ashtead, Surrey.
