I lived in Hong Kong for eleven years and was spoiled for Asian food: bubbling Sichuanese hotpots, omakase, steaming bowls of ramen, fishing villages serving crispy mantis shrimp and clams piled high in thick black bean sauce, smokey Korean barbecues and banchan… It was an education in regional flavours.

Surrey isn’t blessed with a big Asian demographic, so there aren’t lots of ‘authentic’ Asian eateries to be found here. Yes, they all say they’re authentic, and I suppose they are – in the same way you might say Pizza Express serves authentic Italian food. But the food is mostly toned down.

I’ve learned to make peace with this, but every now and then, a serious craving hits. This week, Mrs C and I found ourselves in desperate need of some Korean soul food, so we hopped down to Guildford to see if the much-lauded Hanki could scratch the itch.

Yangnyeom Fried Chicken (£10.90)

Korean Fried Chicken has become a global sensation over the years, and for good reason. While American chicken is fried just once, the Korean method relies on a multiple-frying method. This gives it a crispy edge, even when drenched in a sauce.

And holy moly… Hanki nails it. These wings are shatteringly crisp on the outside, and soft and moist on the inside.

The sweet and sticky outside is delicious without being aggressive. Personally, I would have liked a bit more of a kick, but as we were leaving, I overheard a young lady fanning herself and remarking on how spicy they were. It’s proof that Hanki knows who they are cooking for.

I would come back for these wings alone.

Beef Bulgogi (£11.90)

A simple, well-executed with moist, soft beef, lovely steamed rice and some savoury umami depth. Bulgogi will never knock your socks off, but this leaves you with a wholesome feeling.

Tteokbokki (£11.90)

The mandu dumplings are filled with a rich, creamy, ricotta-like tofu and herbs but the rice cakes themselves are a little soft and should have more bite. Despite having two chilli symbols on the menu, the sauce is dialled down. It’s nice, but a little timid for my tastes.

The first time I ate real tteokbokki, I almost fell of my chair. This is a far more reserved version.

What’s The Damage?

A quick gripe before we wrap up: some of our food was served in disposable packaging despite us dining in. I’m no eco-warrior, but eating out of a cardboard box while sitting inside a restaurant feels mildly depressing.

The Verdict

How does Hanki fare? It’s a good spot for entry-level, toned-down Korean comfort food. It isn't going to slap you around the face with big, challenging flavours, and it’s not ‘authentic’ fare, but if you want something sweet, sticky and satisfying without blowing your head off, you’ll enjoy it.

Either way, you need to go and try those wings.

Guildford Side Quests

The Pocket, located in the Tunsgate Quarter, is serving Sapporo beer on draught. This is one of my favourite lagers from Japan, and perfect for a sunny day. If you haven’t tried it, I recommend swinging by. Meanwhile, if anyone ever spots Suntory Premium Malts, please email me and mark it as urgent.

I also enjoyed a quality gelato at Dolce & Salato. They also looked to serve a selection of canolis… But I have more self respect than to eat one of those on a boiling hot day. (Just).

A Sad Farewell to Coughlans Bakery Finally, on a much sadder note, it was devastating to see Coughlans Bakery collapse into liquidation recently, closing all 32 branches across Surrey and the South East after 89 years of business. British food culture has come so far over the last ten years, but it is utterly disheartening to see so many beloved, long-standing businesses shutting down due to the crushing weight of rising costs.

If you want to help stop this trend, please take a moment to sign the #VATsTheProblem petition. Spearheaded by chef Tom Kerridge, the campaign is calling on the Government to cut hospitality VAT to 10% to give these independent businesses a fighting chance.

Bookham Country Market

📍 The Old Barn Hall, Bookham.

🕘 10:00 – 12:00

Ripley Farmer's Market

📍 Ripley Green, Ripley.

🕘 09:00 – 13:00

Sip & Paint | Albury Vineyard

📍 Albury Vineyard, Guildford.

🕘 12:00 – 14:00

Biriyani Magic Workshop at Mandira's Kitchen

📍 Mandira's Kitchen, Albury, Guildford.

🕘 11:00 – 12:30

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